Index With Hyperlinks to Location in Manual
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Before
you order a pool kit there are several things you should consider.
ุ Water table in the pool site area.
ุ Easements and subdivision restrictions.
ุ Building codes and lot line set-backs.
ุ Fencing requirements and/or restrictions.
ุ Location of septic tank, field lines, old cisterns etc.
ุ Call BUD (the 800# will be in your phonebook) and they will
mark all your buried lines.
ุ Make sure backhoe, trucks etc. can get access to your pool
site and don't assume your neighbors will let construction equipment cross on
their property.
ุ In choosing proposed locations for your pool keep it close to
the room you will most likely use for access to the pool area. A home with a
pool is better than a home
and a pool keep it close.
ุ Maintenance will require less effort if pool is away from
trees and also bathers can better enjoy the afternoon sun.
ุ Keep in mind where surface water will go when there is a big
down pouring rain. It must be able to drain away from the pool into an area
that is not offensive to you or the neighbors.
ุ Filters need to be back flushed & before picking your
filter consider where this backwash water will go, your neighbors don't want it
and there may be an ordinance against running backwash into the municipal
drains. Should this be the case consider a cartridge filter or adding a backwash
filter.
ุ A good idea is to check with neighbors who have an in-ground
pool to see what problems they had to overcome when they dug their pool, such
as rock or a high water table, while these conditions do not prevent youre
building a pool, it will involve additional expense.
Proper installation of your PLEASURE POOLิ
The proper installation of a PLEASURE POOLิ is
critical to protect your reputation as a professional pool installer and assure
continued product acceptance and customer satisfaction. The purpose of this
manual is to provide the installer with 
innovative skills, and the best-known procedures for
successful installations. These easy to follow instructions also help you avoid
painful and expensive experiences such as; improper grade, pool off level,
loose plumbing fittings, settling concrete, and pool leaks.
This manual represents 48 years experience, research,
and actual on the job know how developed by our installation crews training
dealers throughout the US on over 10,000 below ground pools under all types of
soil conditions. Also feed back from dealers who have overcome difficult soil,
terrain, and weather problems is a large contribution to the knowledge base
that is represented in this manual.
The material in this manual is intended as a guide
only. Southern Indiana Manuf. Co., Inc. makes no representation, warranties, or
guarantees of any kind, expressed or implied, regarding this information. If
there are any discrepancies between this information and state or local
building codes, or if state or local codes are more comprehensive or specific
about construction, design, or safety, those regulations must take
precedence.
The National Spa and Pool Institute
Standards and Recommendations for the Installation of In- Ground Swimming Pools
are as follows.
1. Deck
to be finished with a non-slip finish and sloped ผ per foot away from pool.
2. Steps,
if installed, must be provided with a handrail as instructed on individual
construction plans.
3. Pool
must have barriers on four sides. All entries in barrier must be provided with
doors or gates that are equipped with self-closing, self-latching mechanisms
that are located above the height of a toddler and are provided with hardware
that enables permanent locking. If the house is part of the the
barrier, all doorways opining from the house to the pool should be provided
with childproof locks or window screens. THE HEIGHT, nature, and description of
the barrier should be determined by consulting local codes. In the absence of
local swimming pool barrier codes, the barrier should be of a construction that
affords no external handhold or footholds and of a material, which is impenetrable
by toddlers. This barrier should be at least four feet in height and completely
surround the swimming pool. Consultation with an expert in the area of swimming
pool barrier design is recommended.
4. Installation
of any electrical device by anyone other than a licensed electrician is
prohibited.
5. Pools
should be provided with minimum of two points of exit in the form of ladders or
steps, one in the deep portion of the pool and one in the shallow portion of
the pool. If a step is used as a point of exit, it should be located in the
shallow end of the pool.
6. One
skimmer must be provided for pools up to 799 square feet. Two skimmers must be
provided for pools 800 to 1600 square feet.
7.
The following area safety signs should be installed in a prominent location:
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A. |
NO DIVING EXCEPT FROM DIVING
BOARD |
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B. |
DANGER, RISK OF DROWNING |
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C. |
BASIC LIFE SUPPORT |
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D. |
POOL RULES |
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E. |
SAFE DIVING |
8. The following safety equipment should be
available:
ุ First
aid kit.
ุ Reach
pole one piece with hook - not less than 12' long.
ุ A
1/4" diameter throwing rope 1-1/2 times the maximum width of the pool or
50' which-
ever is less, to which has been attached a ring buoy with an outside diameter
of approximately
15 inches or some similar floatation device.
9. Main drains shall be of the anti-vortex
type to prevent entrapment.
10. Circulating equipment shall be adequate to turn over complete gallonage in a max. of 12 hours.
Layout of
Pool Area
To provide working space when the pool walls are set
in place, all outer dimensions of the excavation are made 24 larger than the
actual pool size. For example, excavation for a 16 x 32 pool is 20 x 36
these enlarged dimensions are the Excavation Dimensions. The Over dig is
the extra 24 excavated beyond all walls of the pool.
The excavation is outlined by four re-rods, one at
each corner. Re-rods should be 3/8 x 2 (elsewhere in this manual they may be referred
to as pins) Drive the first layout pin firmly into the ground in the
excavation corner that has the highest elevation. From this re-rod as a working
point, place the second pin for the length of the pool keeping it equal
distance from the house, fence etc. so the pool will be parallel and square
with its surroundings. Now use two tapes hooking one of the tapes to each pin
and find the measurement for the width of the over dig on one tape and the
diagonal measurement on the other as shown on your print for the pool you are
building. Keep the measuring tape apx. level and if the distance from the tape to the ground is
over 2, hold the pin at the top at the correct measurements and drop, so the
pins will be the correct distance apart from a level plane.
When the excavation area (pool plus 24 over dig) is
staked out, run a nylon string taunt around these pins and spray along the
string with orange layout paint. (Layout paint dries almost immediately, do
not use any old can of paint lying around or you will have a very upset mother,
mad at you and the children when they track this paint on her carpets!) If you dont have paint pound the
pins flush with the ground and use the string as a guide for the backhoe
operator to follow. He will appreciate you making an X with flour or something
light colored so he can readily see where the pins are so he doesnt puncture a
tire.
Once the excavation layout is squared choose the
elevation for the top surface of the pool (top of coping). Normally the surface
will correlate with a surrounding walk, patio deck, or highest ground elevation
of the pool site. The top surface of the pool must be three to four inches
(3-4) above the highest ground elevation or rain and snow drainage problems
will result.
To
decide the depth of the initial excavation, locate the highest ground elevation
on the pool site. If this point is not in the way of excavation and dirt
removal, mark it conspicuously for future reference during the pool
construction. If it is in the way of excavation, transpose this elevation to a
deck, sidewalk, mortar joint on a block basement wall, or driving a stake in an
out of the way place. Add four inches (4) to this elevation and this will now
be the elevation for the top surface of the finished pool.
The
depth of the footing excavation will then be 45 (the pool wall of 42, plus
the coping height of three inches (3) below this reference point. Remember,
the reference point plus four inches (4) is the top of the finished pool
including the coping. This is now known as the finished elevation.
IMPORTANT! ALWAYS CHECK THE EXCAVATION DEPTH FROM
THE REFERENCE POINT.
The
45 depth, measured from the top of the coping, will be maintained in the
shallow end and on the 24 wide working ledge or over dig around pool wall
perimeter. The first operation is to dig a trench 36 wide to a uniform depth
of 45 below the reference point selected as the top surface of the pool. Work
from deep to shallow end then across the shallow end of the pool. Setting the
depth of the excavation requires a standard calibrated survey shot stick and
transit level. A 2 x 2 or other similar stick approximately 12 long can be
substituted for a standard shot stick.
Set
up the transit in an area that gives clear view of the pool sight and wont
have to be moved during construction. After setting and leveling the transit in
an out of the way place, mark the shot stick. This is done by placing shot
stick at the selected finished elevation and marking it at the level indicated
by the transit. With a pencil, mark the stick at the point where the transit
cross hairs intersect with the shot stick. This marks the finished elevation.
Measure
up the shot stick 45 and draw a line across the 2 x 2 and put a 0 in the
middle of the line. It is helpful to measure 2 above this line and put a dash
and mark +2 so you can tell the operator he is 2 to deep etc. If you put
dashes below the 0 and mark them with a -2 etc you can tell him apx. how much more he has to dig
out to make the trench level. This mark
now determines the excavation depth for the shallow end and over dig ledge.
When the 45 mark is in the level sight of the transit you know that this part
of the hole is at proper depth. If the pencil mark is above the cross hairs,
the excavation is not deep enough and the pool will be higher than the
predetermined elevation. A mark below the cross hairs indicates the excavation
is too deep and the pool wall will be below the predetermined elevation.
Accuracy at this stage will require less shimming and adjusting of pool walls
later.
Most dealers start by digging a
3 wide trench to the proper depth along the shallow end and the long wall on
the side that has the least room for maneuverability of equipment. After the
trench on one side and the shallow end is done and level, dig out the shallow
end using the shot stick frequently, this will save you having to shave later
by hand.
The
next step is to run a string along the exact panel placement line (24 in from
your layout line using the trench that represents the length of the pool by
holding a pin at the topmost point and dropping.) Place a pin at each end
making sure they are the same distance apart as your print calls for. The end
wall will need to be square with this line using 6/8/10 method for squaring
and put a pin in the opposite shallow corner.
Next
measure the length of the shallow minus 2 (i.e.: if your shallow end is 8
your slope starts at 7-10 and is going to slope from this point down a
additional 58 over 14 and the side and end slopes will go from your string
down 58 and in 3-10.) on both sides and place a pin this represents the
break where the bottom slopes down to the hopper. Run a string across this
break and you then begin digging the slopes.
All
diving slopes will be 14 long and side and end slopes will be 4 on a diving
pool. On your shot stick measure up from your line with the 0 representing your
depth at the bottom of the panels another 58 and draw another line and put a 0
in the center so you can be sure you have the deep end hopper at the required
depth.
Using
the strings as a guide cut the earth with a shovel along the strings.
Simultaneously, the termination of the deep end slope should be marked along
the strings with re-rod pins. Refer to your print for slope lengths and hopper
depths.
IMPORTANT:
Be careful not to dig into the area outside the string to avoid an undercut of
the 24 working ledge. Doing so will remove supporting ledge for panels.
While
digging the hopper, the excavator can sight across to the opposite side of the
pool and trim the hopper walls to the proper slope as the final depth of the
hole is reached. The excavated depth of the hopper is four inches 4 deeper
than the finished dimensions. This allows for two inches 2 slope to the main drain.
Refer
to the Construction plans for installation of your particular pool size. For a
diving pool this total excavated depth is 8-7 measured from the top of the
coping. (The original grade stake or benchmark you set as your finished height
of the pool deck.)
Check
the hopper to make sure it is squared as you proceed from the hopper toward the
deep end. Square the hopper by laying out the sides and ends of the hopper to
the proper dimensions, and then measure the diagonals. If the diagonals are
equal, the layout is square.
The
excavator should dig the plumbing trench at a depth of at least 18. It should
reach from the pool over-dig to the equipment pad. This will save digging by
hand later.
Ordering
Concrete Footing
The concrete footing should be
ordered at least one day in advance to avoid scheduling problems the day of the
pour. Placing a will call is also recommended for ordering the
concrete decking and make sure you call early the day of the pour or they may
cancel your will call order.
Leveling Blocks
After
the hole is dug use an 8 to 12 long piece of 2 x 4 lumber
tight against your corner pin and hammer down so the top face of the 2 x 4 is
exactly 45 down from your finished grade stake. Measure from your corner pin
down the string that represents the inside face of your pool panels 8 or the
length of the 1st corner panel and place another 2 x 4 block
centered so the 1st and 2nd panel will share this 2 x 4
support block and be the right height. Continue along the string making sure
the 2 x 4 blocks correspond with the panel placement for your particular pool.
This will make bolting the panels and leveling then much faster and easier.
Next set the swimming pool wall panels on the supporting ledge and leaned against the side of the excavation according to the panel diagram provide in the construction plans.
The Skimmer and Inlet Placement
Placement
for the skimmer and inlet fittings should now be determined. It is best to
place the skimmer near the center of one of the long sides and down wind of the
generally prevailing breezes. In this way the wind will help direct surface
dirt and debris to the skimmer for removal from the pool. In addition,
thoughtful consideration should be given to the circulation pattern of the
water when placing inlets. Strive to eliminate as much as possible all dead
spots in corners. Water temperatures in a heated pool will be kept uniform,
chemistry will be constant, and maintenance will be kept to a minimum.
Bolt Panels
Before
you set the panels check all corner pins to make sure they are square and the
correct width and length apart. Beginning at any corner, assemble the first
wall panel to the corner panel using the appropriate corner brackets for the
pool you are building. Note: the photo on the left is a bracket for an Emerald
corner.
The
bent bolts are used on these corners so one bolt can be used to attach both panels
to the bracket. Do not tighten the nuts and bolts completely at this time as
you may need to shim slightly later. Assemble succeeding pool walls leaving out
the top bolt (the adjusting rod goes here) Keep the panel face just touching
the string. The corner will be stable but as you add panels the wall will tend
to lean in or out and make bolting difficult so install a deadman
and adjusting rod every 2nd or 3rd panel.
In
the photo on the left the pool is above the existing grade so they are using the
2nd bolt hole. When the pool wall is barely above grade use the top
bolt hole and make sure the top of the deadman is at
least 2 below the top of the panel.
The
threaded rod is used to plumb your walls after the pool is checked for square
and the walls are straight and pinned at the bottom with re-bar.
Tighten Bolts and
Install Adjusting Rods
Make
sure the top of the panels and the inside face of the panels are flush and
tighten the bolts and nuts firmly. For the top bolt use the threaded adjusting
rod putting a nut on the bent end then putting through the top hole and
tightening the second nut firmly. Put a nut on the long threads and through the
dead man apx. 5 back and using a mall pound the dead
man into the ground to the panel height. By turning these nuts, plump the
walls.
Squaring
the Pool Walls
After
all pool walls are assembled, position the complete assembly absolutely square
and parallel. Do this by measuring length, width and diagonals as found in your
construction prints. First, fit the pool to the deep end walls excavation as
close as possible. An easy way to achieve squaring is by setting an alignment
string along the bottom length of the pool wall, and straightening a long wall
first. Recheck the widths of the pool at the corners. Then measure the
diagonals of the pool walls corner to corner. When the dimensions are equal,
the pool is squared. Straighten the remaining walls. When the wall assemblies
are straight, square and parallel, drive 3/8 x 2 re-bar pieces into holes
located in the bottom flange of the pool wall panels along the entire pool
perimeter. Pin the corners first. Leave 6 of re-rod extending above bottom
flange.
Hint: Your 4 corner pins (8 corner
pins for a emerald pool) should have been checked for square per your print
before you started bolting your panels and once they are all bolted together
all you need to do is straighten the walls at the bottom using a string offset
the width of a piece of พ shim material on each end. Check with a shim at each
panel joint and tap the wall in or out as needed and pound a 3/8 x 2 rebar to
hold the bottom true.
When
using a step section, individual manufacturer instructions should be followed
for installation procedures. Most dealers will prepare the step so once it is
put in place in the excavation it is ready to bolt up to the panels. The
installer in the photo has turned the step upside down on four foam knelling
boards. He is attaching the supports to the brackets so they stay in place when
they turn it over and carry the step to the excavation. The supports are kept
in place by running a piece of re-bar through each support and wrapping the
support to the re-bar with duct tape keeping them in place at the bottom.
Next
he turns the step upright and using a corner bracket clamped to the flange with
the top of the bracket พ above the flat part of the step flange (a พ
piece of foam is packaged with the face plate screws to fill this void and when
duct taped on that flat portion helps assure both sides are drilled the same.) and
marks the holes with a pencil and drills the bolt holes in the flange. To
keep the lower edge of the step straight when pouring the concrete footing,
place a 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 across the lower front length of the step section,
(inside the pool), securing it with forming stakes so the concrete doesnt push
the step out from the pressure of the concrete.
Leveling the Pool to the Predetermined Elevations
Check
the level at each panel joint and at each of the steps four corners. Level the
pool walls with the transit using shims under the pool walls as necessary.
(1/4 masonite cut in 4 x 6 squares works well for
shims) This procedure is very important and enough time should be devoted to
the leveling procedure to assure an absolutely level pool. Following the
leveling procedure, plumb the pool walls using adjusting rods and dead man
anchors or bracing system. To achieve a straight sight line and plumb walls,
stretch an alignment string along the top of the pool walls from corner to
corner, on each straight section of wall.
Installation
of Main Drain
1.
Assemble the main drain by putting thread tape on the fitting in the bottom
opening and tightening or install the gravel stopper if used 
at
the bottom of the drain; and a male insert adapter in the side opening. Cover
the opening of the main drain with parallel strips of duct tape. Trim the
excess off at the outer edge of the sealing surface. This will keep the screw
holes free of dirt until the bottom is finished. Faceplate and anti-vortex
cover will be installed after the vinyl liner is in place.
